2017.03.17 Fri 更新

new Artistic director

Givenchy has appointed Clare Waight Keller as its new artistic director, ending months of speculation surrounding who would succeed Riccardo Tisci in one of Paris fashion's highest-profile roles.

The LVMH-owned fashion house announced the news on Instagram, initially sharing a black-and-white portrait of founder and namesake Hubert de Givenchy, then a quote ("true elegance comes with a natural gesture, an attitude in simplicity"), and finally a portrait of Waight Keller, captioned: "2017. CLARE WAIGHT KELLER. NEW ARTISTIC DIRECTOR. SHOT BY STEVEN MEISEL."

"Hubert de Givenchy’s confident style has always been an inspiration and I am very grateful for the opportunity to be a part of this legendary House’s history," said Waight Keller. "I look forward to working with the teams and writing a new chapter in this beautiful story."

Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, said: "I am very happy to have Clare Waight Keller join the LVMH Group. I believe her widespread expertise and vision will allow Givenchy to enter the next phase of its unique path. I am very much looking forward to her contribution to the Maison’s continued success."

The move makes Waight Keller, the former Chloé creative director, the first female artistic director ever to lead Givenchy. She joins a lineage including Tisci, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald.

Along with Givenchy's womenswear collections, Waight Keller will also design menswear and haute couture.

"In an industry where there are so many women, it is really positive to see a woman being announced as being at the helm of a major fashion house" says Natalie Kingham, buying director at Matchesfashion.com, which stocks Givenchy. "I am really excited to see her bring some femininity and feminism to the collection."

Waight Keller recently drew to a close her six years at the helm of Chloé, showing her final runway collection for the house at Paris fashion week only two weeks ago. Her time at Chloé was an undisputed success story, modernising founder Gaby Aghion's 'flou' sensibilities and producing a number of desirable new shoe and handbag styles.

Appointing Waight Keller signals a likely shift at Givenchy - a move away from Tisci's 12 years of goth- rock- and sex-tinged collections, and toward the more classic, feminine vision Waight Keller has espoused at Chloé and Pringle of Scotland, her previous creative directorship.

Waight Keller, who holidays in Cornwall and recently moved her family back to London, is worlds removed from Tisci, who enlisted celebrity friends including Kanye West and Kim Kardashian (Tisci designed Kardashian's gown for the couple's 2014 wedding) for his star-studded front rows, and featured Donatella Versace in one of his campaigns. What the two designers share is a knack for brand-building, and track records of commercially successful collections.

Waight Keller's final collection for Chloé drew inspiration from The Yellow Submarine, mashing up psychedelic references with Seventies-inflected suede tracksuits.

Tisci has not disclosed his next move, but is widely rumoured to be heading for a top design post at Versace.

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